Enchanting Everest...........A Spiritual Experience

On 22nd March 2010, I had the opportunity to accompany Olive Green Beret on a visit to Nepal. Every experience of the six days sojourn in the small Himalayan kingdom remains etched in my memory.I give below one of the most unique experiences that I had……an exclusive mountain flight to Mount Everest!

A hundred divine epochs would not suffice to describe all the marvels of the Himalayas.

Hindu Proverb

I’m on board the Everest Express, a special mountain flight which will take me on an exclusive tour of the Majestic Himalayas. It’s a date to remember and I’m all agog with excitement as I wait impatiently for the flight to take off. Olive Green Beret couldn’t join me on this historical trip  as he had to fly to Dharan the same day, on work.

I’m touched by OG Beret’s gesture for, having heard about this special flight, he ensured a booking, for me to experience this spectacular journey.

“What made you think about this trip?” I asked him.

“Well, you’re so passionate about nature and I saw your childlike enthusiasm as you spotted the dazzling peaks on the flight from Delhi to Kathmandu. How could I deprive you of this once-in-a-lifetime experience?” he said.

“But….isn’t it a little too expensive?” I asked, already feeling quite guilty for burning a hole in his pocket with all the French chiffons, crepes and semi-precious stones that I had so lavishly spent on at Bishaal Bazaar in Kathmandu.

“What’s a little money when compared to the thrill of seeing the highest peak in the world?” he laughed.

“I’m really touched,” I said, as I gave him a warm hug. “Unfortunately, I’ll never be able to fight with you, ever after, for all you’ve done,” I chuckled.

The sound of the turbo engines bring me out of my reverie and I’m back into the moment as I wait for the small Jetstream aircraft to take off. It’s a Yeti Airlines flight, the only one in Nepal to operate the British Aerospace Jetstream 41 aircraft. We are 21 passengers in all and each has an assigned window seat. I’m on 5A, which is on the left of the plane. The beautiful airhostess gives us a pamphlet which shows us the flight plan and a panorama of the peaks that we will view.

I shiver in excitement and fear too, for I’m apprehensive of the turbulence that we may encounter. I’ve never really been a great one for flying and every flight that I have to undertake keeps me on tenterhooks. I also apprehend bad weather conditions which can play spoilsport, leading to a cancellation of the flight. But, I pray for divine intervention and I’m rewarded with the most magical experience of my life.

As we rise above Kathmandu and fly towards the east, I don’t have to wait too long to get my first glimpse of the Himalayan Range. We’re cruising at 25,000 ft. as the Langtang Urung peak at 7234 m (23,734ft) looms ahead. My tiny digital camera swings into action and I gasp at the majestic sight in front of me. The Choba Barnare peak, a treacherous and stubborn peak at 5933 m is next on the menu. This is one peak which, although the smallest in height, has never been conquered. Very soon I can spot the Gauri-Shankar twin peaks (23,406 ft) jutting out in all their glory. This rugged mountain is unique, for while one peak is snow capped, the other is bare of snow! Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati are said to protect this mountain. I’ve heard that after many unsuccessful attempts, this peak was finally scaled somewhere in 1979.

I’m tempted to take a peek at the ground below for I’m curious to see what’s there too. It’s a heavenly sight - I’m above the clouds and there are glaciers, rivers, and gorges below me.

I quickly take my eyes off and focus my camera on the range. Melangtse, a plateau like mountain is next in sight, standing tall at 7023m. Cho-Oyu  the eighth highest mountain in the world at a height of 8201 m, appears stunningly beautiful from the aircraft.

 In the distance one peak however, towers above the rest and I’m filled with wonder. I can hear my heartbeat go thud…thud…thud as I stare in front of me. It’s unbelievable, but true.  I’m finally face to face with the highest peak in the world!

My heart skips a beat and I click furiously as I shift from auto mode to video mode. I want to capture every inch of the panorama in front of me and almost stop breathing because of the spectacular view. The aircraft draws in closer to Everest and the airhostess ushers each passenger one by one into the cockpit. This is even more exciting, for once inside the cockpit, we can get to photograph the magnificent view without any obstruction and carry home some exclusive pictures.

We are now just 5 nautical miles away from the enigma that is Everest and as I look in amazed wonder at the sheer beauty, my eyes fill with tears. I can’t get enough of this sight and want to capture it in my memory for ever. I see God’s hand in the perfect picture of the glorious peak as a tiny wisp of cloud so artistically placed near its summit, just remains frozen, and I’m sure it will be a memory that will last me a lifetime! I send up a silent prayer of gratitude to the Almighty for giving me this good fortune to view His creation and I am humbled. I mentally thank OG Beret also and bless him a thousand times, feeling so fortunate to have a soul mate who understands that it’s the little things that bring so much joy!

It’s my turn inside the cockpit and I’m shuttling between looking at the wondrous sight, listening to the co-pilot’s commentary and clicking photographs. I’m scared I’ll miss the actual one and maybe focus on Lhotse instead which is closest at 27,940 ft. But, I’m already one with Sagarmatha (as the Everest is known in local parlance) and I’m confident I won’t miss it.

By the end of the cockpit experience, I’m ready to kiss the co-pilot, so emotionally high-strung I am! I return to my seat albeit a little reluctantly, giving way to the next passenger as I don’t want him to be deprived in any way.

The aircraft banks slightly to the right as it takes a turn near the Makalu peak (27,766ft). It is the ‘return to base’ flight path. I can’t seem to get enough and look longingly and nostalgically at what I’m leaving behind.

The airhostess comes around and this time she gives each of us a certificate for having experienced the magic of the Everest Express. I clutch my two mementos to my heart – my boarding pass and my certificate and realization strikes suddenly.

Just as the lofty peaks of the Himalayas have been conquered by mountaineers of all races, in this one hour of breathtaking scenic beauty, I have experienced a personal victory – for I have conquered my fear of flying.

I may never touch Mt. Everest physically in this lifetime, but….I sure have touched it with my heart!

European Reverie

At the end of an official visit to Namibia and Sweden, we  joined a group of 26 others on a package tour of some European countries. Our itinerary, which looked so inviting and thrilling while we were contemplating whether to shell out that kind of money back home, did indeed live up to it’s name.

Rome – Venice – Switzerland – Paris …….the works!

We had a chartered bus at our service with the most polite and ever smiling Czech driver at the wheel. He drove at an amazing speed, taking the scheduled break every two hours while we sat back on the cushy seats and admired the breathtaking view of Europe, passing by.

We crossed over from Italy to Switzerland without as much as a check of our visas and suddenly, the beauty of Heidi’s countryside assaulted our windowpanes. We were in Luzern, the seventh largest city in Switzerland. The city straddles the Reuss River where it drains the lake and therefore, has a number of bridges, the most famous being the Chapel Bridge. From Luzern, we drove to our destination in Switzerland, the modest ski-resort of  Engelberg.

Stationed at 3028m, just below the distinctive crest-of-a-wave summit of Mount Titlis, Engelberg, along with its huge Benedictine Kloster (monastery) and the faded grandeur of its hotel architecture, was indeed well worth a visit.

We were warmly welcomed to the Edelweiss Hotel by our hostess Suzanne, who had some ‘Indian tea’ ready for us –

‘Oh, how  thoughtful’, we said in unison, looking forward to the home brew, ……….

we managed to gulp the cinnamon water with false gratitude and vowed never, ever, to sip Indian tea while in Switzerland!

Indian tea soon forgotten, we gasped at the beauty of the actual Swiss cottages and the snow-clad Alps that beckoned to us from our bedroom windows.

.

 “A walk to the village square is a must”, said my husband, and so, off we went trudging down the hill to the aroma of freshly baked bread and cakes wafting from a bakery close by and the faint ringing of the Bells of the Angelus, marking the close of day,  to explore the little town of Engelberg.

“A quiet town that sleeps early”, I said to myself.

But……what was that in front of me?  In fact, in front of almost every store, there stood a little angel, painted in all finery, to match the theme of the window dressings, blessing the store and guarding it.

 “There must be a story behind all these angels”, I thought in wonderment! Later that night, I heard the story from Suzanne herself……….(see box)

 

Engelberg: Angels of the Mountains

The story is told of a knight who lived sometime in the 14^th century in modern day Switzerland. He often felt the need to become a monk and set up a monastery. But his family’s disapproval prevented him from doing so for a very long time. He took to pursuing the acts of his forefathers and participated most reluctantly in a couple of wars to save his country from invasion. A few wars later, he finally took the decision of renouncing his knighthood and becoming a monk. But he could not do so as he had crossed the age when he could be initiated. Undeterred, he decided to at least fulfil his dream of setting up a monastery.

He spent many a sleepless night wandering in the mountains, wondering in which direction to go ___trying to find a suitable place for the monastery. One night while in deep sleep, he saw a vision most glorifying _____some angels were giving him a message. He listened carefully, for they were giving him the directions to the place where he should set up his monastery. He walked in that direction guided by the angels’ voices and reached this little spot. He set up the monastery and called the place Engelberg which means, Angels of the Mountains.

Benedictine Kloster, the monastery is still functional; a High School functions from here too. The bells ringing in the morning wake you up to a beautiful day, while the angels that have been sculpted in memory of those angels that showed the way, still stand guard and bless this beautiful town.

Achaar Party

In April 2011 I became a grandmother and just by coincidence, my journey into 'pickle making' also commenced. Fresh, luscious,green mangoes straight from my garden found their way into my pickle jars and combined with freshly ground spices and smoking hot mustard oil along with the scorching sun of many a May afternoon, they did vie for special treatment on the dining table. They were hot, they were sweet, they were tangy and sour! And.....they had to be appreciated! Thus the idea of an 'Achaar Party' took shape!
Just yesterday I had this bunch of excited ladies over, all set to get their gastronomic juices afire with my array of mouth-watering pickles......and what a treat it turned out to be! Finger-licking, delicious 'achaars' served with a variety of paranthas...... and, to cool our fiery tongues, some  cold,delicious lassi served in earthenware glasses! Just as everyone enjoyed the whole concept, I enjoyed conceiving and executing the idea, creating the special invite and of course doling out those precious, delectable, tangy gems from my porcelain pickle jars!

Creation

The bulbs were taken care of like little babies

In the refrigerator they were kept by the ladies….

To maintain their temperature.

From September they lay inside,

Rubbing shoulders with vegetables,

Taking pride!

By the end of November they were sown,

In a little patch, in the Mess lawn.

In December the patch was covered with snow…………..

Do not disturb them, we were told,

It’s good for their health,

They thrive in the cold!

    In early March a tiny green shoot could be seen,

The Commanding Officer was informed………..

      Officers, Mess staff and ladies….

                                             All rushed to the scene!

What excitement there was on the lawn of the Mess,

13 green spikes had shot up…

Not one more, not one less.

The patch was guarded by day and by night

A Special Sentry was posted on duty, alright.

Finally, the Great Day arrived

When all the bulbs bloomed…………

(Oh! What a beautiful sight!)

The CO drank a toast,

Others followed suit,

It was time to celebrate

Though the Beauties stood mute!

Cameras clicked, flashbulbs shone,

In Joshimath, you see

For the first time,

TULIPS were grown!